hi fellas this is the first item I would like help with its a ghost hunting touch pad I would like to know what I would need to make something like this please any help would be most helpful
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ETGAYOoxr8
ghost hunting touch detector
Re: ghost hunting touch detector
Hello.
This looks like a simple proximity detector. There is a huge number of circuits on the net, with different modes of sensing - search Google for "proximity detector schematics". Diagrams for all sorts of detectors - Capacitive, magnetic, PIR - the list goes on and on.
Good luck with ghost hunting - remember that extraordinary claims need extraordinary evidence!
This looks like a simple proximity detector. There is a huge number of circuits on the net, with different modes of sensing - search Google for "proximity detector schematics". Diagrams for all sorts of detectors - Capacitive, magnetic, PIR - the list goes on and on.
Good luck with ghost hunting - remember that extraordinary claims need extraordinary evidence!
Re: ghost hunting touch detector
hi Richard thanks for your help do they work of static as the fella dose not even touch the box for it to set the alarm of would you know of a easy diagram and parts list so I can try making one thanks you ATB Phil.
Re: ghost hunting touch detector
Hi Richard I have found this one that I think would suit my needs I am still unsure of what parts I need to make it could you please help or would you know of any one that could make this for me many thanks ATB Phil.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxL_jyZcvLU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxL_jyZcvLU
Re: ghost hunting touch detector
Hello.
The diagram is of a very simple proximity detector, and may well be enough for your uses. It will need to be set up to work.
As far as the components are concerned:
1) Those marked “R” are resistors – the values in kilohms (the “K”). ½ or ¼ watt rating.
2) Those marked “C” are capacitors, and the values are in picofarads, except for C4 and C6 where the values are in microfarads. These last two are electrolytics, (16VW) and must be connected the right way round – the negative to the earthy side, and the positive where you would expect a positive voltage. C1 and C2 are small trimmers (capable of adjustable value) and may be ganged. These will need to be set up to get the unit to work properly.
3) The two diodes D1 and D2 are very easily available, and the cathode end (in the diagram, this is the right hand end of D2) is usually marked with a coloured ring or similar.
4) There are many different transistors that will operate as well as the 2N2222, but this should be easily obtainable.
5) What can we say about the buzzer? Just get one that will work on 9V and take less than (say) 100 mA. Again, easily available.
6) The three inverters U1a – U1c are contained in an integrated circuit which may be obtained under the generic title of “4049 hex inverter”. There will be prefixes and suffixes to the name, but those will refer to the manufacturer.
In addition to this you will need a 16 pin dual in line socket for the IC, and you must remember the handling rules for the IC – always earth yourself and your circuit before picking up the IC, keep it in any conductive foam it came in until you are ready to use it. If you follow the wiring as shown, you should also connect pins 9,11, and 14 to earth. You may like to use one of the various “breadboards” to test the project. The sensing plate can be any sort of metal plate, provided that you can make a good electrical connection to it. Single-sided printed circuit board would be a good choice.
The circuit works by U1a and U1b forming an oscillator, the output of which puts a positive voltage on pin 7. Since U1c is an inverter, pin 6 will be at ground level. Q1 will be switched off. When a hand approaches the plate, it will disturb the feedback path of C1 and C2, and the oscillation will stop. The voltage on pin 7 declines, and that at pin 6 will rise, turning on Q1 so that the buzzer sounds.
I expect that you will need to experiment with the settings of C1 and C2, and the settings may well need to be altered each time you use the device, because of different conditions around the plate. Start with the trimmers at their minimum value (I expect there to be no oscillation, and therefore the buzzer on) and increase them by roughly similar amounts until the sounding stops, showing the oscillator has started up. Slight adjustments should bring the unit to its maximum sensitivity.
Enjoy!
The diagram is of a very simple proximity detector, and may well be enough for your uses. It will need to be set up to work.
As far as the components are concerned:
1) Those marked “R” are resistors – the values in kilohms (the “K”). ½ or ¼ watt rating.
2) Those marked “C” are capacitors, and the values are in picofarads, except for C4 and C6 where the values are in microfarads. These last two are electrolytics, (16VW) and must be connected the right way round – the negative to the earthy side, and the positive where you would expect a positive voltage. C1 and C2 are small trimmers (capable of adjustable value) and may be ganged. These will need to be set up to get the unit to work properly.
3) The two diodes D1 and D2 are very easily available, and the cathode end (in the diagram, this is the right hand end of D2) is usually marked with a coloured ring or similar.
4) There are many different transistors that will operate as well as the 2N2222, but this should be easily obtainable.
5) What can we say about the buzzer? Just get one that will work on 9V and take less than (say) 100 mA. Again, easily available.
6) The three inverters U1a – U1c are contained in an integrated circuit which may be obtained under the generic title of “4049 hex inverter”. There will be prefixes and suffixes to the name, but those will refer to the manufacturer.
In addition to this you will need a 16 pin dual in line socket for the IC, and you must remember the handling rules for the IC – always earth yourself and your circuit before picking up the IC, keep it in any conductive foam it came in until you are ready to use it. If you follow the wiring as shown, you should also connect pins 9,11, and 14 to earth. You may like to use one of the various “breadboards” to test the project. The sensing plate can be any sort of metal plate, provided that you can make a good electrical connection to it. Single-sided printed circuit board would be a good choice.
The circuit works by U1a and U1b forming an oscillator, the output of which puts a positive voltage on pin 7. Since U1c is an inverter, pin 6 will be at ground level. Q1 will be switched off. When a hand approaches the plate, it will disturb the feedback path of C1 and C2, and the oscillation will stop. The voltage on pin 7 declines, and that at pin 6 will rise, turning on Q1 so that the buzzer sounds.
I expect that you will need to experiment with the settings of C1 and C2, and the settings may well need to be altered each time you use the device, because of different conditions around the plate. Start with the trimmers at their minimum value (I expect there to be no oscillation, and therefore the buzzer on) and increase them by roughly similar amounts until the sounding stops, showing the oscillator has started up. Slight adjustments should bring the unit to its maximum sensitivity.
Enjoy!
Re: ghost hunting touch detector
Many thanks Richard what would the cost be and were can I get the parts I need would there be any one willing to make them for me ATB Phil. you say its a simple proximity detector but to some one new to me it looks a little complicated my best thing I have made to date is an ir illuminator 
Re: ghost hunting touch detector
Hello.
I cannot imagine that the cost would be excessive. resistors, capacitors and diodes are cheap, the IC is probably under £1. Once again the mighty Google will come to your aid! Have a look on the Maplin site - you may well find most of the things there.
Your illuminator looks neat, and if you are going further, you might like to get what I think is the best book on electronics generally. It is "The Art of Electronics" by Horowitz and Hill. It is rather pricy if you want the latest edition, but you may be able to find a copy of the first edition on Ebay or similar - I am still using mine!
Hope this helps
I cannot imagine that the cost would be excessive. resistors, capacitors and diodes are cheap, the IC is probably under £1. Once again the mighty Google will come to your aid! Have a look on the Maplin site - you may well find most of the things there.
Your illuminator looks neat, and if you are going further, you might like to get what I think is the best book on electronics generally. It is "The Art of Electronics" by Horowitz and Hill. It is rather pricy if you want the latest edition, but you may be able to find a copy of the first edition on Ebay or similar - I am still using mine!
Hope this helps
Re: ghost hunting touch detector
Hi Richard do you no any one that could make me two of these units because I want it all to fit inside a project box could an Arial be used in place of a touch pad ? ATB Phil.
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piratepaul
- Posts: 432
- Joined: Mon May 20, 2013 2:45 pm
Re: ghost hunting touch detector
This is a scam.
Re: ghost hunting touch detector
No, I don't. Just get the book and learn - this forum is for advice only!
A plate will be more sensitive than an aerial.
A plate will be more sensitive than an aerial.